What ghassoul is and how to use it in professional cosmetics

Ghassoul (also spelled rhassoul) is the clay of the Moroccan hammam. It has been used for centuries to wash skin and hair, and today appears in masks, solid shampoos and spa rituals across Europe. This guide explains what it is exactly and how to work with it.

Origin

Ghassoul comes from the deposits of Jbel Ghassoul, in the Ksabi area, Missour province, in the Moulouya valley, on the edge of the Middle Atlas. It is one of the few known sources of this clay in the world.

Although its INCI name is Moroccan Lava Clay, geological studies describe the deposit as being of lacustrine, not volcanic, origin. It is a useful detail if you are asked about the name.

Composition

The main component is stevensite, a magnesium-rich clay of the smectite group, accompanied by quartz and dolomite. Moroccan regulations (Decree 2-73-370, of 1974) reserve the trade name «Ghassoul» for products with more than 90 % stevensite.

Laboratory studies describe a high specific surface area and cation exchange capacity. In practice, this means that ghassoul absorbs a lot of water and forms a creamy paste, which is what makes it so convenient to apply.

Formats

• Fine powder: ready to mix, the most practical for treatment rooms and for formulation.
• Stone or pieces: the traditional presentation. It is hydrated and broken down before use.

Indicative preparation

Mix the ghassoul with warm water, rose water or orange blossom water until you get a homogeneous paste. As a starting point, try one part ghassoul to two parts liquid and adjust according to the texture you want. Use glass, wood or plastic containers and spatulas.

Uses in professional cosmetics

• Face and body masks in treatment rooms.
• Hair masks and traditional hair washing.
• Hammam ritual, after beldi soap and exfoliation with the kessa glove.
• Ingredient of cleansing powders, solid shampoos and soaps.
• Retail product under your brand, alone or in hammam kits.

In the communication of the final product, stick to cosmetic functions (cleansing, absorbing excess oil, leaving skin soft). Do not attribute therapeutic effects on skin diseases to it.

Quality checks worth requesting

As a natural mineral, ghassoul must be checked before use in cosmetics:

• Microbiological analysis, because clays can carry a microbial load.
• Heavy metals: the cosmetic safety assessor needs them for their report.
• Data sheet, with particle size, moisture and appearance.
• Safety data sheet (MSDS) for transport and warehouse.

Storage

Store in a closed container in a dry place. The powder absorbs moisture from the air and may cake.

Want to try it in your treatment room or in your formula? Request a sample of powder and stone.

Sources

• Study of the properties of Moroccan ghassoul (stevensite) in aqueous suspension, PubMed Central
• Benhammou y otros, «Mineralogical and physicochemical investigation of Mg-smectite from Jbel Ghassoul», Clays and Clay Minerals, 2009
• Chahi y otros, «Analyses of palygorskites and associated clays from the Jbel Rhassoul», Clays and Clay Minerals, 1993

Indicative information for professionals, reviewed on the date shown. Regulations change: confirm the requirements for your case with your regulatory or customs adviser.