Virgin or deodorised argan: which to choose for your formula
Differences in process, smell, colour and use between virgin and deodorised argan oil, and what data to ask for in the certificate of analysis.
Cosmetic argan oil is sold mainly in two grades: virgin and deodorised. Both come from the same kernel, but they are not equally suited to every formula. Choosing well avoids reformulating later or receiving complaints about the smell of the finished product.
What cosmetic argan oil is
It is the oil obtained by cold pressing the kernels of the argan fruit (Argania spinosa), a tree endemic to south-western Morocco. For cosmetic use the kernels are not roasted; roasted-kernel oil is the food-grade one, with a nutty flavour.
Its INCI name is Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil. Morocco also protects its origin with the geographical indication «Argane», and Moroccan standard NM 08.5.090, published in 2003, defines the specifications of virgin argan oil.
Virgin argan oil
It is obtained only by mechanical means: pressing and filtering, without solvents or chemical treatments. It keeps its golden yellow colour and a characteristic, mild and slightly earthy smell.
It is the right grade when you want the product to convey natural origin and the smell of argan does not bother: pure oils, hair oils, balms or soaps.
Deodorised argan oil
It starts from the pressed oil, from which the volatile compounds responsible for the smell are removed, normally by vacuum steam stripping. The result is an oil with a neutral smell and, depending on the process, a lighter colour.
Some suppliers combine deodorisation with other steps, such as filtering or bleaching. That is why you should ask for the data sheet to state the exact process. Bear in mind too that a deodorised oil is no longer strictly «virgin», even though the expression «deodorised virgin» is seen on the market.
How to choose
| Criterion | Virgin | Deodorised |
|---|---|---|
| Smell | Characteristic, mild | Neutral |
| Colour | Golden yellow | Lighter, depending on process |
| Process | Mechanical only | Pressing and deodorisation |
| Perfumed formulas | The smell may interfere | Recommended |
| Product message | Origin and naturalness | Texture and neutrality |
A practical rule: if your formula contains perfume or delicate essential oils, or if argan is only part of the oil phase, deodorised oil causes fewer problems. If argan is the star and the customer expects to recognise it, choose virgin.
What to ask for in the certificate of analysis
Ask for the certificate of analysis (COA) of the specific batch you will receive, not a generic document. The usual parameters are:
- Acidity or acid value, which indicates the degradation of triglycerides.
- Peroxide value, which measures primary oxidation.
- Ultraviolet absorbance (K232 and K270), related to oxidation.
- Fatty acid profile: oleic and linoleic acids predominate in argan.
- Sterol composition: campesterol content is used to detect blends with other oils.
- Organoleptic characteristics: colour, smell and appearance.
Always compare the batch COA with the data sheet and with the sample you approved.
Storage
Argan is relatively stable, but it oxidises with light, heat and air. Keep drums closed, in a cool, dark place, and reduce the air space in opened containers. For small formats, amber glass or aluminium protects better than clear plastic.
How we help you
We supply both grades in bulk and in private label containers, with their data sheet and the COA of each batch. If you are unsure which to choose, ask for samples of both and test them in your formula.
Sources
- Moroccan standard NM 08.5.090, cited in: chemical composition of virgin argan oil, Cahiers Agricultures (CIRAD)
- El Maouardi y otros, «Quality Control and Authentication of Argan Oils», Molecules, 2023
Indicative information for professionals, reviewed on the date shown. Regulations change: confirm the requirements for your case with your regulatory or customs adviser.